Swimming with Horses in Barbados

By James Ross

We are up at first light, which in Barbados happens to be around 5:30 am. The sun is rising over the Caribbean, the morning breeze stirs the palms, and the ocean catches the first golden light of the day. It is a beautiful time to be outdoors, before the heat sets in, and an unusual equine experience awaits at Carlisle Bay.

One by one, grooms from the Barbados Turf Club at the Garrison, the island’s historic horse-racing venue in Christ Church, lead young racehorses down to the water. These elegant Thoroughbreds come to swim and soak in the salty sea. Akeem, the trainer accompanying me, explains that the water helps soothe their muscles and joints. Having spent a few hours paddling around the bay myself the previous day, I can understand the appeal.

I wade into the shallows with Tawa, a lanky, four-year-old bay gelding. Armed with a towel dipped in the clear seawater, I help sponge down his neck, back and muscular shoulders. He fidgets and shuffles from side to side, reminding me to keep my bare feet well clear of his hooves. Akeem tells me that little fish sometimes nibble at the horses’ bellies, giving them a ticklish surprise. I can only imagine their reaction.

Further out, some horses swim alongside their dedicated grooms, while others pose patiently for photographs with sun-kissed tourists. Retired racehorses are also available for an experience in the shallows. Rather than actually riding, visitors are gently led through the water by grooms, who chat amiably with their bikini-clad charges. I am offered a leg up, but politely decline. My baggy swimming shorts and the prospect of being led around the bay are enough to make me reconsider!

After the horses’ morning spa session, I head over to the track. The Barbados Turf Club is a wonderful place, with its historic stands and stables, open spaces and peaceful atmosphere. Back from their ocean dip, the horses are hosed down, their legs wrapped, and their saddles fitted in preparation for training.

Under the watchful eyes of their trainers, diminutive jockeys guide the horses into a sprint around the ten-furlong oval. Some youngsters prance, kick and crow-hop impatiently as they pass on their way to the track. The more experienced horses take everything in their stride, complete their work, and return calmly to the stone-and-wood stables.

Swimming with horses in Barbados may not offer the thrill of a conventional riding adventure, but it is a memorable experience all the same. Wherever I travel, I enjoy seeking out unusual opportunities to spend time with horses, and this one is particularly special. There is something magical about watching these magnificent animals enjoy the Caribbean Sea as the island wakes up around them.

A tropical morning, a beautiful bay and a few hours in the company of horses: in Barbados, that is a wonderful way to start the day.